Showing posts with label Vacation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vacation. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 9, 2016

Salt Shakers and Explanations

So. Here we are.
Another wild adventure behind me and a blank page before me. So many things to tell about this trip. Guess I will start at the beginning...

I don't know exactly when Bogart, Bacall, Hemingway or Buffett entered into my personal fabric. I do know – for fact or fiction – they are people whom I admire.
I suppose Peter Brady's infamous "pork chops and applesauce...that's schwell...." started the longing to see what all the Casablanca fuss was about. Truth be told, I saw Play It Again Sam long before I saw Casablanca.
Didn't matter. Loved them both. Factor in Lauren Bacall's biography, read as a teenager; the movies To Have and Have Not and Key Largo; my hopeless romanticism...

Which sort of rolls into Hemingway.
I had a passing acquaintance with him in Sophomore lit class, Ernie in a turtleneck, glaring down at us from a mass produced poster, the back cover shot from The Old Man and The Sea. I didn't actually read Hemingway until Junior year American Lit. For Whom the Bell Tolls, The Sun Also Rises, all the Nick Adams stories...I fell hard.
Not for the author, but for the image and lifestyle.
I read The Sun Also Rises every summer until I discovered The Garden Of Eden. And then I read them both, imagining myself traveling through Spain, eating fresh caught trout and drinking wine from a short stubby glass in a cool, dark bar...

Over the years, my husband and I have read and discussed nearly everything Hemingway has written. Our favorites have shifted here and there as our knowledge of his actual life has increased. But in the end it is still about living. Truly living an adventurous life.
Soundtrack by Jimmy Buffett.

It was with much literary description, cinematic glamour and trop-rock soundtrack that we decided to do our own tour of the Florida Keys. We were armed with a list of 'must see' sites:
Sloppy Joe's Bar
Hemingway's Fishing Boat
US 1
Alabama Jack's
Captain Tony's
Hemingway's House
Mallory Square
Card Sound Road
Mile Marker 0
The list covered an entire page of notepaper.
Front and Back.

I was afraid that the trip would pale in comparison to the build up our years of imagining and months of planning.
Ha.

As we made the slightly illegal U-turn in our rented Honda, to catch the turn off for Card Sound Road – don't trust the I-phone GPS – my heart began to pound. And there it was:
Alabama Jack's

Described in professional travel guides as a honest to goodness dive bar, the outside did not disappoint. We walked in to a laughing, rum punch fueled welcome by the friend's who decided to meet us on this odyssey. 
Angie and Rob discuss the merits of cole slaw and conch.
They had been warned.
This was not going to be a 5-star, butler in the hallway, dressing for dinner sort of vacation.

What none of us expected was such a delicious meal. 
from the Landshark, clockwise - crab cakes, fish fingers, conch fritters, fried shrimp, boiled shrimp
A couple more rum punches and a Landshark beer later we headed out, down Card Sound Road to Key Largo and the Key Lime Sailing Club. Our home for the next five days.

Of course it is never that simple. We had heard a rumor that the bus stop from Bloodline – the one Danny leaves and returns and doesn't show up from was just down the road from Alabama Jack's.
We never found it. Although we were tempted to take a photo of every other bus stop we passed, just in case.

Driving down US 1 through Key Largo was like flipping through our list. The Caribbean Club on the right. The African Queen on the left. We watched diligently for the mailbox with the white picket fence, just after Mrs. Mac's Kitchen near mile marker 99. (After checking in at MM 108 – everything is measured by mile marker.)
The driveway was interesting. As was our welcome – by several men raptly watching another guy sitting on the ground cleaning a cannon.
Yes. Just a guy, cleaning a cannon. A pretty brass one destined to be attached to a sailboat on the other side of the island. Sadly, I didn't get a picture. I was a little distracted.
By this: 
Yes. It will kill you.    
And this: 
cue the singing angel hula girls
CJ, the right hand man to owner Paul, gave us our tour, some helpful hints for groceries and dinner and the heads up that Sailboat Orientation would begin in the morning at 9am sharp.

Still a little overwhelmed by the flight, the history, the cannon...we unpacked, swung by Winn-Dixie for supplies and concluded Day One at the Fish House where I learned just how delicious those Stone Crabs really are. 

For your viewing pleasure, a very unprofessional tour of our cabin:


Come back on Saturday for Day Two: Sailboat Orientation and Mangroves. In the Rain

If you decide to re-create any or all of this trip:
Alabama Jack's is located at 58000 Card Sound Road. It is an open air bar specializing in local seafood. While described as a 'dive bar', the place was clean and the food delish. No need to dress up. Trust me. The line of gas cans by the bathrooms pretty much sums it up.
Not kidding!
Key Lime Sailing Club is this interesting little cluster of cottages. In its previous life it was a fish camp. The ten cabins have been converted to cozy, eclectic rentals, each with BBQ grill, patio table and access to your personally assigned sailboat.
Yes. Sailboat.
No worries if you don't sail. The Club is affiliated with the American Sailing Association which means you could actually learn while you vacation.
If sailing isn't your thing your rental also includes access to kayaks, paddle boards, snorkel equipment, a hobie-cat and a sunfish sailboat.
You can find the club at 101425 Overseas Highway #922 Key Largo, Florida 33037
Call for reservations: 305-451-3438

The Fish House (10241 Overseas Highway Key Largo, Florida) and The Fish House Encore – owned by the ex of the Fish House owner – sit side by side. No reservations needed, although they are pretty busy in season. Again, no need to dress up. As stated, they serve fresh caught, local fish as well as offering chicken and beef options. But really? Why?

Tuesday, May 17, 2016

Not My Uncle's Lake of the Ozarks

It seems that as soon as I find a place I dearly love, the Universe has a way of either shutting it down or making it so darn popular that it loses it's oddball appeal.
~Rossino's (basement Italian where the waiters and tall guests dodged pipes)– closed
~Saleem's (where garlic is king) - closed
~Blueberry Hill and the Delmar Loop-too touristy; less Rocky Horror-y
~Broadway Oyster Bar – too packed and busy; less uni-sex bathroom whose door barely shuts
Although I suppose it is great for those last two businesses that their appeal has transcended the rather specific, cash only, beer in bottles crowd which frequented them when I first discovered them. And those two places that closed? Well, they had been in business for decades. I am sure the owners needed a vacation.
Consequently, I am taking a huge chance by writing this.

We had the pleasure of spending the weekend at Lake of the Ozarks with two of our three dinner club couples. The plan was for shopping one day, sailing the next and  in between a whole lot of delicious food and wine.
For those not familiar with Lake of the Ozarks – it is a gigantic man-made lake in the center of Missouri. Easily accessible from nearly every state boarding. It is a mere three hour drive from the Coast of Illinois. Both my husband and I grew up vacationing here – spending time on power boats with skis strapped to our feet then eating at motor-boat fish joints along the lake. In the evening we were entertained by Baldknobbers and folks hawking Indian Moccasins and salt-water taffy.
(Yes, I know 'Indian' is not the political correct term, but back in the 70's that is what we went with. And if you haven't heard or seen a Baldknobber, well, I am sorry. Click here:baldknobbers.com  Although I am sad? to say, the show has moved to Branson, Mo)

Anyway. There is a certain expectation when one vacations at Lake of the Ozarks. And trust me, it is not a high one. (Think tin-shower rustic and deep fried fish.)
So, I can tell you first hand what a treat it was to stay at Shawnee Bluff Winery.
(as per usual, this is NOT a paid post)

The location is near the main drag, just a mile or so from the Ozark Yacht Club and the Bagnell Dam strip and perched on a bluff overlooking the lake. Shawnee Bluff may have the absolute best view of Lake Ozark that I have ever seen.
morning view looking up lake

evening view looking down lake
The Winery has eight units, each with a slight variation of this amazing view. 
Granite stone cottages, always adorable.

Red doors. What's more inviting?
Our rooms, recently renovated, were a nice mixture of modern and rustic. And clean. Very, very clean. 


tiny but unbelievably clean bathroom

AND a choice of in room wines...
The patio furniture supplied to each unit was old, but functional, and exactly what is expected when you vacation in the Ozarks. 
Rob feeding the local animals....
Thanks to widely varying plans, our group met up around 5pm. Just in time to catch the evening music guest. (Shawnee Bluff has live music Friday 5-8, Sat and Sun 1-4 and Saturday evening 5-8.)
pool/patio with bar. yes, that is an enormous wine bottle spritzing into the pool.
We opted to sit on the Winery patio and grab dinner. The menu is small offering several appetizer choices, wood-fire pizzas with a variety of toppings in both traditional and flatbread styles. Burger options and several main course selections round out the menu.
I chose salmon served with rice and broccoli – quite delicious. The wood-fire pizzas are amazing and the burgers looked to be a great choice.

Of course, this is also a winery.
And I must, in the interest of full disclosure mention, that I am not – overall- a fan of local wines. We have found a few Chardonnays made in Missouri and Illinois which are 'okay'. Rob really enjoyed the Flappers and Philosophers Chardonnay made by Shawnee Bluff. It was light and crisp and quite nice with the salmon or to just sip while enjoying the view.
Local red wines, in my opinion – which is not educated or scientific in any manner – tend to taste a little like the soybean fertilizer used in the region. However – Shawnee Bluff's Que Syrah Syrah was fantastic – to the tune of two bottles over two days. It was slightly peppery and had just the right amount of body to enjoy on a brisk spring afternoon. 
The winery offers a nice variety of their house wines and a small but nicely curated menu of nationally produced varieties. They also have good options for beer, if you are so inclined. 
Our second day's activities, which I will go into in a later post, were cut short due to excessive wind and a lack of a sit-down eatery at the Osage Beach Outlet Mall. So we returned to Shawnee Bluff for an afternoon snack. Once again, we were treated to music and some surprising appetizers.
Rob and I ordered the Charcuterie Platter- a nice array of cheeses, salami, crackers and toasted pita with the most amazing little goat-cheese stuffed roasted peppers.
Those peppers, next to the grapes. OMG!
The real star of the afternoon food-fest were the Sweet Potato Fries. 
They took a little longer than anticipated to arrive at our table but they were absolutely worth the wait. The 'fries' were more like huge wedges of fresh sweet potato which had been roasted, my guess is in the wood-fire oven, to a nice brown on the edges and melt in your mouth softness throughout. They were served with a BBQ sauce to dip in.
They did not last long. 
 
So tasty I almost didn't get a photo!
Rooms at the winery go for around $120 a night and guests receive 10% off their food, wine and gift shop purchases. I should mention that the music is easily heard from the rental unit patios. However, as the music and the winery itself pretty much shuts down by 9pm this never caused an issue with sleep. The Vineyard, which is about 15 minutes away, also hosts concerts from time to time and winery guests can take advantage of a shuttle to and from.

If you ever find yourself in need of an Ozark vacation, I would highly recommend Shawnee Bluff Winery.
Just please don't book ALL the rooms when I decide to go there. 

Links to click on!
http://www.premiumoutlets.com/outlet/osage-beach
http://www.ozarkyachtclub.com/
www.funlake.com

And as mentioned previously, this is not a paid post. However, I am willing to negotiate for the second weekend in September...

Tuesday, February 16, 2016

Take Us Home CakeMan

As with most of the country, the Coast of Illinois is under attack. For some, the threat is wind. Others, as myself, it is the most dreaded of forecasts- the 'Wintery Mix'! And if you are lucky enough to be out of El Nino's tantrum there is still the hot air of politicians decimating the airwaves. 
So what better time than now to go back to the islands...
I passed this young man early one morning as I walked the beach looking for my favorite Ganga man (for PICTURES! Stop it!) He had a mask and spears and apparently a keen sense of fish hangouts. It has become one of my favorite photos.
But if early morning spear fishing isn't your thing..


How about a wine tasting and appetizer buffet in the dappled sunlight of a poolside pergola?
No?
Okay...


A beachside wedding perhaps? One of probably a dozen we covertly attended. Your gift is in the mail, happy couple.
Still not warm? 
Then perhaps a candlelight dinner under the stars?


Or a pastel painted sunrise...


Still not there? Then close your eyes and listen closely... There is a cart rolling down the marble walkway...one wheel is a little wonky...a quiet rattle of china underscores splashes from the pool...a gentle whiff of vanilla mixes with the ocean breeze...
That's right...
It's 
CAKEMAN!!!

 Possibly the most absurd and wonderful experience of my life so far! 
Cake! 
At the pool! 

I seriously need to relocate...

(All photos are from Iberostar Grand Rose Hall Jamaica. Wedding and dinner pics courtesy of our dinner club Fireman. The rest are mine.)








Sunday, January 10, 2016

Well Played Neptune...Well Played...

Well, here it is.

The Coast of Illinois's first actual hit of winter weather for 2016. The weather-people were predicting INCHES AND INCHES of snow – which did not happen on my particular harbor – and a chilly dip in temperature – as of this morning it was NINE degrees. That is single digit NINE!

The perfect time for more Tales of the Caribbean! Jamaica Edition!



As mentioned previously, our SFJV* set up home base at the Iberostar Grand Rose Hall Resort. Truthfully, home base was the far corner of the 'quiet' pool, where, at any given time you could find 3-5 of our 8 dinner club members floating on noodles, lounging in lounge chairs or hanging on the edge watching water aerobics in the 'work-out' pool.
 
Heads in a pool. The perfect spot to observe other people doing water aerobics while simultaneously signaling the drink lady.
 All while sipping Dirty Bananas. (More on these in a later post. I promise.)

This was Arrival Day.

It is surprising how quickly humans adapt.



After what felt like endless hours of relaxation, but was actually only about ninety minutes, Rob (my potentially deceased husband) noted that there was a guy in the work-out pool with SCUBA diving equipment. And – cue the choir of angels – he was giving lessons! 
Here I am. Looking happy, relaxed and no where near a near death experience.

Long story short, I found myself signing a credit card receipt for 4300 dollars- Jamaican* *and giving the front desk a request for a wake up call for the following morning at 5:45.



This would be DAY ONE.

Of the seven days we were in Jamaica, 5 of those involved a wake up call or alarm clock wake up. FIVE! Somewhere, someone owes me five sleep ins.



We both woke long before the wake up call, pre-gamed my room service coffee with in-room coffee, showered – because it is important to look good before they squeeze you into a sausage casing and enjoyed a room service breakfast like no other.



I must take a moment from the original story to describe our breakfast.

The menu gave numerous options beginning with 'American style omelet' and continueing on through every known a la cart breakfast item in the world. Rob, being a huge breakfast fan ordered the 'American'. I figured I would keep it light and ordered a fruit plate with 'soft' cheese. The room service man delivered two huge plates of eggs, half a small hog of bacon, enough fruit slices for a nursing home, a bowl of ricotta and four delicate pastries.

Coffee, hot chocolate and juice.



This would be my first mistake...
Breakfast of Champion Vacationers!

The next couple of hours consisted of signing releases and being sized up by a ridiculously petite lady for our wet suit fittings. I am not sure which of those two things is more fun.

Then it was class time.

Class time is NO joke. Diving can be dangerous if not done with proper training and respect for the environment. Dressel Divers Club is a PADI - Professional Association of Diving Instructors- facility. The emphasis here is on Professional and Instruction.

Our class – three students and one instructor – lasted around an hour. We discussed the effects of water pressure on human bodies, and how to acclimate. We learned about our equipment and, my favorite, hand signals.
the most obvious 'hand signal' is not included here.

After passing a written test, we squeezed into our wet suits. We then waddled to the pool where tanks were strapped on and we became the entertainment for a handful of pre-teens.



Pool time is not as fun as it sounds. Pool time is work. It is real life use of the dive equipment. We learned to clear our masks, clear our mouthpieces, inflate and deflate our vests. We practiced finding our regulators in the event we lose them, we monitored our air gauges, and practiced buddy breathing.This is not as dramatic as they make it out in movies. Today's dive gear actually has a spare mouthpiece attached so you NEVER have to take a breath, pass your regulator to your buddy, wait for him to clear it then breath before passing it back. This second mouthpiece is simply passed to the troubled diver, cleared and put in place allowing both divers to breath on one tank.

We used multiple hand gestures. And were reminded repeatedly to BREATHE NORMALLY!

Sure.

I always breathe through a tube. Did I mention that one of my recurring, ridiculous fears is of IRON LUNGS? Did I mention that I work with people on ventilators who are breathing through tubes? The nursing advice 'pretend you are sucking on a straw' kept coming back to haunt me.

I found myself concentrating on my breathing so hard that I kept forgetting how to breathe. And I have been professionally breathing for 54 years.

Dani, our instructor was very understanding and offered the reassurance that in the ocean there is so much more to see that you really won't find yourself just concentrating on breaths. And in her petite English accent pointed out that, "there's not much to see in a pool besides hair and Band-aides".

Did I mention that I really HATE public bodies of water because of the random hair and Band-aides?



Anyway, I managed to not drown myself in the six foot pool while wearing a full tank of air and only felt slightly self-conscious in my wet suit. Plus I only managed to break a nail and scrape a knuckle while putting the suit on or taking it off. I am not sure. I didn't notice either 'injury' until I sat down for lunch. I passed my pool lesson and after minimal discussion, fueled by exhilaration at accomplishing the first stage of a new skill and probably a carbon dioxide build up high, agreed to come back for my first open water dive that afternoon.



Lunch was my next mistake...
This is just one example of the delicious buffet lunch at the pool restaurant. This photo is courtesy of our Fireman. I am pretty sure I ate a much lighter meal, but from events soon to be revealed, that is up for debate.

I arrived back at the dive shop ready to go. The afternoon session included our three student class, Dani our instructor, a second group of seasoned divers with their guide and a sweet couple along for the boat ride. 
This would be Dani, our instructor and me in much happier times.

While riding out into the ocean, strapped to my tank which was strapped to the boat, it occurred to me that not only was I STRAPPED TO A BOAT but those waves looked pretty big. Especially the ones that kept splashing us. And by splashing I mean drenching the entire boat. It was a wild, fun ride to our dive location. Everyone laughing and joking about how good the water felt as it washed over our seal-like bodies.

The only thing missing from this horror story set up was a basement full of chain saws.



The experienced divers jumped first as their dive would be closer to 45 minutes compared to the student dive of apx 30. Once they were safely off, it was our turn. Dani went over our dive procedure one last time – big step off the boat while holding your regulator with your right hand and covering your weight belt with the left; swim to the rope and hold on until all divers were present. At this point we would slowly, hand over hand on the rope, descend a few feet, equalize pressure in our ears and then continue down. This first dive would be to around 40 feet and involve 6 -7 stops to equalize pressure and do a general 'everyone good?' check.

Rob stepped off, swam to the rope. Pete, the other student – not his real name – jumped next and I followed shortly after at the command of the boat captain.



I swam to the rope.



And this is when the Ocean decided we had things a little too smooth. It took our little dive as a personal challenge.



I am not exactly sure what happened. There was some floundering. Some crashing into Pete. There was a whole lot of mind cursing and peering longingly to the depths where there were no waves. Or floundering, Or bobbing up and down...and up and down... and up and down....



At some point my mask was knocked crooked and I used my newly acquired sign language skills to motion that I needed to surface. Dani acknowledged and we both returned to the surface. (Not a tough task as I am pretty sure I was barely six inches underwater.) She asked if I was okay and I explained that I just needed to fix my mask. I should have attempted to clear it as taught but instead lifted it from my face at which point the Ocean saw its opportunity and threw a Perfect Storm 15 foot wave over us. I will never forget the image of Dani's head bobbing in the water as the enormous wave curled up behind her. The final images of George Clooney and Mark Walhberg in The Perfect Storm flashed through my mind. And the cook from The Wreck of the Edmond Fitzgerald...'aye mates, its been good to know ya...' I felt one with the universe. Not really ready to die but okay if this was the BIG ONE.


The salt water.

The bobbing.

Up and down...up and down...up and down...



Totally my bad.

I motioned to Dani that I needed to get back on the boat. She reassured me it was okay and whistled for the boat captain to circle around for a pick up.

Of course, as I swam to the boat I had the recurring thought that once on the boat I would be bobbing up and down ON A BOAT while we waited to pick up the rest of the divers.

But first I had to get ON the boat.



The Captain deserves a medal. Not only did he have to manage a concrete boat in rolling seas but he had to do so without crushing the middle age tourist who was trying not to think about the rolling seas as she passed him her weight belt and swim fins before hoisting her onto the deck.

Once on board I crawled sea lion style to my safe place, wedged on the deck of the boat between the concrete seats, well out of the Captain's way. The nice couple who were getting not only a ride but a show helped unzip my wet suit and offered encouragement before returning back to their seats well out of range of the American who was turning several shades of Caribbean green.



I am not sure what went on from this point on. I heard a lot of commotion, equipment was being passed back and forth and all at once Pete was beached on the boat deck and then Rob was sitting beside me, asking if I was okay and trying to keep hold of me, even though I apparently kept waving him off.



It seems that the rough water had only become rougher prompting the Captain and dive crew to cut everyone's trip short. I don't understand the need to pick up those other divers. I mean, come on, they had air tanks. They were experienced. Jamaica is a big island. Just swim for crying out loud But no-o-o-o-. We circled around for the experienced group, who slowly re-boarded the boat on the port side as I leaned out of the doorway on the starboard.



And in what is now becoming a tradition on my Caribbean vacations, I heaved to with all the commitment of a professional. If there were an Olympic medal for vomiting off of a boat without getting the boat or anyone else messy I would win the gold.

I am not a pleasant vomit-er. Rob, who was worried that I would fall out of the non-existent door, kept trying to soothe me while holding on to my wet suit. I heard later that I kept shoving him away with less than pleasant, incomprehensible words. Dani, our instructor offered me a drink of water finally giving up and pouring the fresh, cold water over my head. 
Dive boat. Made of Concrete. The reasons are many.

In the end, we all made it back to shore with completely different experiences.

Rob was exhilarated and ready to return the next morning for another try.

The experienced divers wondered what all the fuss was about.

I am not sure what Pete was thinking, he had that look Jimmie Stewart has at the end of It's a Wonderful Life when he realizes he has another chance.



And me?

I was exhausted yet curiously excited and anxious to give this new sport another go.

But not this trip.

And not until there are absolutely no waves and I have had a little more practice in the confines of a swimming pool. 
This is where I spent my remaining 'open water' dives. That would be me on the far left. Please note retiree Coach second from right signalling the Drink Lady!! (photo courtesy of Fireman!)

I feel I should make a couple of notations here.

First off – the waves really were ridiculously big, tossing a concrete tri-maran two thirds out of the water. The Captain and crew held several meetings during this trip, at the beginning changing our dive location to a more protected spot and later calling a stop to the trip altogether. I never truly felt I was in danger. I did feel confident in my training of the SCUBA equipment.

My lack of ability to maintain digestive equilibrium is a problem I am learning to conquer.

Although I must also note that it has become common ground in meeting new people.

The following morning at breakfast a delightful man stopped me in the buffet line to inquire after my health and exclaim delight that I was still alive – turns out he and his wife were the couple along for the ride. We had a laugh over my impressive Mal de Mer and learned that the Captain was none too happy with the weather, not smiling until we were all safely back on the dock.



DresselDivers was wonderful. They credited this first disastrous dive – giving each of us two more open water dives, of which Rob enjoyed three of, seeing a seven foot nurse shark lounging in a ravine on his first one! This is also only a beginner experience. To actually become certified requires a much longer program. However, taking this class gives us a discount should we sign up for the full class with any PADI facility.



*Seriously Fancy Jamaican Vacation – click here for more info.

**The cost of the lesson which included two open water dives was around $200 (American) per person.



And of course, at no point was I paid to write this. 

Come back soon for the next installment: All Inclusive -The Adventure!